Puppy Basics


No Description

 

 

 


Little Neck Animal Hospital

 

BASICS OF PUPPY TRAINING

 

 Although genetics play an important role in behavior, environmental influences and training exert a far greater influence on the overall temperament of a dog.

 Behavior problems are one of the biggest reasons owners give up their pets.

 The first 14 weeks of a puppy's life have the greatest impact on his development. Puppies are most receptive to new experiences during this period and failure to provide a variety of social and environmental interactions can have lasting negative consequences.

 The first two weeks of ownership will set the tone for the entire relationship. Important behaviors that must be addressed during this early period include:

 Bite inhibition

 Socialization with people and other dogs

 Household manners

 Learning to stay home alone

 Technicians can play a key role in helping new puppy owners understand the importance of working on all of the above puppy behaviors. They can also educate clients on proper ways to prevent or modify unwanted behaviors


Bite Inhibition

 Bite inhibition is an important behavior that is often misunderstood. Owners frequently make the mistake of immediately trying to prevent their puppies from any and all types of mouthing. However, doing this never allows the puppy to learn how "hard" is too "hard". If a dog that has never been taught proper bite inhibition does become injured or frightened and react with a bite, the force of the bite is more likely to break the skin and cause damage.

 Puppies that are first taught how to gradually inhibit the force of their play-bites until they are only gently mouthing and then introduced to the concept of "no bite" are much less likely to break the skin or cause any damage in case of a bite.

Socialization with People

 Beginning at 5 weeks old, all puppies will benefit from positive people experiences.

 Puppies that are well socialized to people tend to be more confident and friendly. Unsocialized dogs have a more difficult time in life and suffer stress from being handled by strangers. Veterinarian and animal behaviorist, Ian Dunbar recommends that all puppies should meet a minimum of 100 strangers during their first month in a new home.

 We encourage new puppy owners to schedule their first veterinary visit at a time when the puppy does not require any painful or uncomfortable procedures to be done. We suggest that you visit the office several days early just to have a "get acquainted" opportunity. The puppy can meet and play with the staff, be placed up on the exam table, fed treats, and leave the office wanting more.

Socialization with Other Dogs

 Puppy classes are often the safest, most effective way to begin introducing your new puppy to other dogs outside his own little world. Play fighting and play biting help to ensure a puppy develops good bite inhibition. Classes offer a controlled way to help a puppy learn to enjoy other dogs. Most puppy classes have an age requirement to ensure that all of the students are at a similar developmental stage.

 Dog parks can be good socialization areas once puppies are safely immunized and able to enter them. Long walks in parks provide another opportunity to socialize a puppy with other dogs and people.


 
No Description
 

Household Manners

Training in this area should begin as soon as the puppy comes home. Management is the key to teaching the puppy appropriate activities before undesirable behaviors become established. These important skills include:

1. Housetraining

Prevention is the key. Feed the puppy at specific times so that it will be possible to predict when the puppy will need to eliminate. Supervise, supervise, and supervise. This can include tethering the puppy in the room with you. All puppies should be taken out at regular intervals during the day including after eating, after sleeping, after playing or anytime that the puppy is observed sniffing around.

When the puppy cannot be directly supervised it is imperative that the puppy be confined in a puppy-proof area. For short periods of time this can be a crate with a blanket and chew-toy.

During longer periods it is recommended that the puppy be provided with a long-term confinement area where the puppy has access to his crate, toys, water, and an appropriate elimination area.

Photo from "Before You Get Your Puppy"

 
No Description
 

2. Chew-toy Training

From day one, owners should help their puppies learn the joys of chewing on appropriate items. Chew toys are different from regular toys in that they are not edible and are virtually indestructible. Kongs, sterilized long bones, and Busy Buddy toys are some of the toys that fit this description. These toys are all hollow and can be stuffed with the puppy's food and/or treats to keep them entertained for long periods of time.

Almost as important as providing the puppy with acceptable toys, is not allowing them to pick up the wrong items. This includes picking up all shoes, socks, and other items that would prove tempting to a puppy.


 
No Description
 








No Description








3. Alternative to Barking

Teach the puppy that barking is not a way to get attention, toys, food, etc. Instead, begin to teach your puppy that quiet gets attention and rewards. Begin by sitting next to the crate, and treating your puppy for quiet time while ignoring the barking or crying. (Ignoring means that you do not make eye contact, nor do you speak to the puppy.)
This applies in almost all situations.  If the doorbell rings, teach your puppy to sit, be quiet and calm (with treats) before answering the door.  Before going on walks- sit and be calm and we will go for a walk. 

We are trying to teach your pet to say "Please" instead of demanding attention.

Puppies that are kept busy with chew-toys do not bark or cry.

Learning to Stay Home Alone

In today's busy society, it is important that pets learn to stay home alone without becoming anxious. This is something that every owner should begin to teach their pet from early on. Many owners bring their puppy home over the weekend and then make the mistake of lavishing great amounts of attention upon their new pet. On Monday they go back to work and the puppy is suddenly abandoned to keep himself occupied. This can cause a great amount of unnecessary distress. Instead, puppies need to be placed into their crate or safe area on a regular basis to become accustomed to confinement. Owners should do this even when they are home so that they have an opportunity to observe how the puppy reacts. Chew toys and positive reinforcement with treats will help the pet relate being confined with good things.

Technicians have an opportunity to help educate clients about what to expect from a new puppy. This can help ensure that the puppy becomes a valued family member rather than an out-of-control animal with bad behavior.



Handling Behavior Problems


 
No Description
 

Many of the problem behaviors that owners report are actually normal dog behaviors expressed in ways and at times unacceptable to people. Therefore, it is important that owners understand some basic principles to modifying a behavior before they attempt to change it.

1.  Preventing problem behavior is always much easier than correcting one that has become established. Remember: The behavior that is rewarded will increase. Your job is to recognize and reward those behaviors you want to encourage.

2.  Managing Behavior: Some behavior problems will come up, no matter how careful an owner is. The most important thing you can do is to recognize a potential problem and prevent it from becoming a habit. This can be done by controlling the environment to decrease the potential for your dog to have the misbehavior rewarded. Remember: The behavior that is rewarded will increase.

3.  Restricting the dog's freedom to the house is the first step in any management program. If you are able to consistently interrupt any misbehavior or place the dog in a secure area where he is denied the opportunity to misbehave, half of the battle is over. 

4.  Other ways to manage the environment include: picking up shoes, clothes, and other unacceptable chew objects until your dog has learned to leave them alone. We also recommend crating the dog, using baby gates to deny him access to visitors, using a head halter or no pull harness until your dog learns not to pull, putting food and trash cans away to prevent stealing. Many of these are not solutions, but measures to prevent the problems from occurring until the dog has been trained.

5.  Identify the Motivation: If the behavior that is rewarded will increase, it is then apparent that there must be a reward involved in any misbehavior that occurs. To stop a behavior, owners must understand what the dog find motivating about it. Sometimes it is very easy to know why a dog does something--Jumping on people for attention. Other times it can be more difficult. A dog may bark to go outside, to get attention or to make the mailman go away. It may take a little detective work on the owner's part to understand the motivation and accompanying reward.

6.  Interrupt and Remove Reward: Once the reason for a behavior has been identified, it becomes easier to prevent the dog from receiving the reinforcing reward. This can be achieved in several different ways. They include:

a.  Ignoring the behavior

b.  Training an incompatible behavior (redirecting to an acceptable behavior)

c.  Providing the dog with an alternate outlet for the behavior

d.  Exercise (both mental and physical)

e.  Watch for your dog to do something right and reward

f.  NILIF (Nothing In Life Is Free)

Reference Sheet for Problem Solving

Refer to the chart below for example of several techniques to manage and solve a variety of behavior problems. Keep in mind that it is important to understand the motivation for a behavior before you attempt to change that behavior.

Behavior

Common Motivations

Management Opportunities

Reward Interrupter

Substitute Behaviors

Jumping Up

Attention

Leash.
Crate.
Baby gate or close doors when company arrives. Ignore dog until she has settled down

Turn away from dog. Leave Room. Don't allow dog into your space.

Sit
Down
Go to your spot

Stealing

Food
Attention

Crate or directly supervise dog always.
Remove objects from dog's reach (shoes, & clothes from floor, food from counter tops)
Booby-trap trash cans or place them out of reach.

Set dog up to catch and interrupt him in the act.
Be vigilant and ALWAYS interrupt the behavior.

Leave It
Out
Down-Stay
Go to your spot

Chewing

Self-rewarding
Attention
Exploration
Boredom

Crate or directly supervise dog always.
Dog proof your home

Always catch and interrupt the behavior.

Provide and encourage the dog to chew on acceptable toys

House Soiling

Self-rewarding
Attention
Illness

Create or directly supervise dog always.
Scheduled feedings
Scheduled trips outside
Veterinary examination

Interrupt all attempts to eliminate inside & take dog out immediately.

Take dog to same spot to eliminate each time
Praise and give treats to dog within 1-2 seconds after he has eliminated

Pulling on Leash

Dog gets where he wants to be

Head Halters
No-pull harnesses
Provide dog with acceptable opportunities to explore environment

Stop immediately and don't move until leash is slack.
Don't allow dog access to object he wants to reach.
Turn around and walk quickly in opposite direction

Watch Me
Loose leash walk

Mouthing

Play
Attention

Decrease arousal level when playing.
Deterrents

Walk away or leave room
Halt all play and put toys away

Use toys during play sessions as acceptable object for mouth
Easy Command

Summary

 Technicians can play a key role in helping new puppy owners understand the importance of preventing or modifying unwanted behaviors.

 Technicians who are able to educate clients about what to expect from a new puppy can help ensure that the puppy becomes a valued family member rather than an out-of-control animal with bad behavior.

References

1.  Before You Get Your Puppy Ian Dunbar, James & Kenneth Publishers, 2001

2.  After You Get Your Puppy Ian Dunbar, James & Kenneth Publishers, 2001

3.  Puppy Primer Brenda Scidmore & Patricia McConnell, Dog's Best Friend, 1996



I have prepared this program to better help you educate yourself about what puppies can do and to give you goals for achieving a well-trained puppy.

Start at 8 weeks old.  Plan on multiple short sessions daily.  If you are getting stressed, the session ends.  Each training session should be followed by play or fun grooming and general happiness.  The puppy should have a collar.  I recommend a small web collar.  The first sessions are with him wearing the collar and getting use to it.  Remove the collar after the puppy quits resisting it.  Once the collar is no longer an issue, the collar can be left on.  A lead may be left on the collar but be sure not to allow the puppy to mouth or use the lead as a toy.  A simple "No" and redirect with a toy (consistantly) is usually sufficient.  It is cute as a puppy, not so cute when your adult dog is using the leash as a tug toy.

Initial sessions should be touching your puppy.  You should touch the ears, face, inner lips, legs and feet, even the spaces between your pup's toes.   Put your fingers at his ears, and touch the underside and as much of the ear canal as you can softly touch.  Every member of your family should do this daily until it seems normal to your pup. Then this exercise should be repeated regularly weekly. You should hold your puppy on his back until there is no struggle when such position is requested. He should, of course, be held in a secure position in your arms or on the floor or on a secure and soft surface and not have any sense of falling.   If your pup resists just a little, perform these tasks until there is no resistance to your handling.  If the pup resists much, you may need to gradually condition your pup to these touches.  The pup that resists, is the pup that needs the training the most.  With these pups, work only until your pup resists slightly, then end the session before you or the pup becomes stressed.  Many times, working with the pup when he is sleepy is a good time to deal with a resistant pup.

            Treats are very important.  Love and a happy voice are the best treats.  Each pup will respond differently to various treats.  Treats should be small and easy to carry.  Bits of dog biscuits, dehydrated liver, pieces of carrot, pieces of cat food or cat treats are usually highly desirable to puppies.  Do not use cat food if you also have a cat.  You should initially give a treat for every good deed your pup does.  However, as training advances, treats are given less often for the basics and more often for the advanced deeds.

            Commands should be proceeded by the pup's name.  Commands should be given in a commanding' voice.  Lower the tone of your voice.  Speak loudly and slowly enough for the pup to hear and understand that a command has been given.  Only give commands when you are prepared to help the pup complete the deed.  Once the command is given, begin to assist the pup into the position you requested or help him to perform the task.  You should help the pup stay in this position until you give a release command.

            You need a release word.  This is a word that your pup should listen for to allow him to once again move about on his own.  He should otherwise continue to do what you commanded until released.  Release' is a good word for this.  Okay' can be used, but is not recommended due to the number of times we use this term in every day life, and frequently as praise.

            It is a good idea to have a word or phrase that you use as a command/request for your pup to urinate or defecate.  This is part of house training/crate training that will be expanded upon in other literature.  But, it is really nice for your pup to go on command when needed.  Common phrases are Hurry up' and Go potty'.

            Your pup will learn fast.  If you and your family members are consistent with your training techniques, your pup will master each step in a matter of several lessons.  Remember, your pup has a very limited attention span.  Initially, less than 1 minute, to eventually long periods of time. 
     
Pups learn with
repetition and consistency.  Every member of the family greater than 7 or 8 should try to participate in the training.   Some children younger will also be capable, and some children that are older will not be able.  Children should be supervised in their handling/training of pups.  If there is a family member that does not "take" naturally to the pet and does not want to participate, that person must be excused from these sessions, until such a time that they might really want to, and are committed to helping the pup learn.

It is recommended that pups of all breeds and sizes go through this training.  It bonds the pup to the family members.  It gives the pup a confidence to stand on his own.  It develops his mind and a mutual communication between himself and family members. Pups have a natural desire to perform for their owners.  Pups that go through this training will sleep more peacefully during rest periods, and be calmer when awake.

           

8-10 weeks of age

            Recommend 60 second sessions, 6-12 times daily. 

"Sit".  --   Say the pups name, the sit command and then with a bit of treat in your hand, make sure he notices the treat by holding it in front of his nose, and then raise it just barely over the pups head to just over its neck with one hand.  If he does not naturally assume a sitting position from this movement immediately apply a small amount of pressure over the pup's rear.  Other pressure points which work in putting your dog into the sit position is a forward pressure or a scooping motion behind the knees, or pressure/pinching at the flank/lower lumbar area. Once the position is accomplished, allow the treat to be gradually removed from your hand and tell the pup how good he is.  If the treat is released over a few seconds, then the pup is naturally holding his position, which is to your advantage, and helps teach concentration.  At other times you may want to watch your puppy, and when you notice he is about to sit, give the command.  This would be a circumstance where you would not say his name before the command, but possibly afterwards.  But, you must be right near him until you give the release command.  Remember that a puppy is most likely to stand and approach you when you are praising him.  So, to keep your pup in the sit position for a time, say "good sit" in a calm and relatively monotone voice, and be prepared to keep his little rear down while you say this.  You will eventually increase the amount of time the puppy stays sitting before you give the treat.  Remember, though, as you increase the time before treating, that pups need to develop the ability to concentrate, so increase times by only a few seconds after each previously successful episode.  If you wait too long before giving the treat, the pup forgets he is performing for you and just thinks about the treat.


"Come".  -- 
The come command is only used when you are happy with your puppy and have some praise and love to give.  It is never used when the pup will be scolded in any way.  Do not use the come command unless you are physically capable of easily "catching" the pup. Puppies are smart and some learn quickly that you can not catch them if they run.  We would like to have the come command firmly learned before they begin testing you. Have the lead on the pup with a collar that will not slip off over his head, and have a hold on the lead.  When the pup is just a few feet away, say his name to get his attention and then say the come' command. This should always be done in a voice that shows you want to be close to the best dog in the world  You must make yourself the most interesting/exciting/wonderful thing in his world at that second. The lead should be tugged a little if needed, and you should step several steps backward to encourage the pup to come.  As the pup begins coming toward you, you may run backward while repeating the come command and the pup's chasing instincts will kick in and he will have a blast following your command.  Once you have gone far enough and the pup is at your feet assist him into a sitting position facing you, then give the release command, a treat and praise.  The lead may be passed to different members of the training group which in turn call the pup and assist the pup into the sitting position.  Pups love this.  All his favorite people calling him and paying attention to him.  And they give treats, too.  Eventually the distance of the lead is lengthened.  It is recommended at this point you only do the come command when the lead is on and you have access to it.


Goals for 10 weeks old
are:

1)      To have the puppy sit in front of the owner on voice command without the physical assistance for 10 seconds.

2)  To have the puppy come from a 4-foot distance and sit in front of the owner.

 

10 - 12 weeks of age

Once 10 weeks old recommend 1-2 minute sessions, 6-12 times daily.

"Sit/Stay".  --  The pup is already able to sit in front of you and stay without moving for 10 seconds.  Now, after you give the sit command, you also give the stay command.  After the pup is sitting, very carefully back up just a little bit, hold the position for just a few seconds, then return to the pup and release him.  Never use the "come" command from a sit or down stay.  Eventually, you will increase the distance between you and the pup.  The key, is a little improvement (10-20 more seconds or 1-2 more feet away) with each training session.

"Down".   --  Put the pup in a sitting position.  Then with a treat in your hand, say the down command and move the treat from in front of his nose toward the ground and forward.  Most pups will naturally go into the down position.  If needed assist your pup into this position by gently pulling/sliding his fore feet forward.  It may help to train on a slick surface, or to have an assistant also place slight downward pressure over the pups shoulders.  This places the pup in a "sternal"  position.  Alternatively, once in the sit position, lift and gently pull one fore leg in a forward motion, and place gentle but firm pressure on the other shoulder.  This places the pup in a "lateral" position.  Just to reiterate one point, any pressures you apply, should be firm, but gentle.  If you are rough or otherwise not careful, you should stop the exercise until you are calm and have more patience in a few hours.  Never use force.  Give the treat once the pup is in the correct position, or a close to that position as possible during that session.

"Down/Stay".  --  Pups that need to hold a stay for longer than a minute or two, should be on the down/stay, not the sit/stay.  Basically, this is a modified procedure for the Sit/Stay.


Goals for 12 weeks old
are:

1)     To have the sit/stay for 1 minute with the owner in front of the pup.

2)     To assume the sit and down positions on voice command.

3)     To have the down/stay for 30 seconds with the owner 4-6 feet away.

4)     To come from a distance of 10 feet, and sit in front of the owner.

 

12-14 weeks of age

            Once 12 weeks old recommend some sessions lengthened to 3-6 minutes 3 times daily.

Recommend other shorter sessions 3-4 times daily.  These should be worked into your routine.


Goals for 14 weeks old
are:

1)     To maintain the down/stay for 2 minutes with the owner 10 feet away.

2)     To come from a distance of 15 feet, and sit in front of the owner.

3)     To have pup sit down and wait to pass through a door until given the verbal okay.

4)     To have the pup not put his paws on people, nor jump up.

5)     To be 100 % housebroken.

6)     To be crate trained fully and not bark and whine when crated.

 

14 weeks of age

            Once 14 weeks old recommend 6 to 8 minute sessions 3 times a day.

            Recommend other shorter sessions 3-4 times daily.

 

16 weeks of age

            Once 16 weeks old, recommend some sessions lengthened to 10-12 minutes 3 times a day.

Recommend other shorter session 3-4 times a day.


Goals for 16 weeks old
are:

1)     To down/stay for 2 minutes with the owner out of site.

2)     To come from a distance of 40 feet, and sit in front of owner.

To down/stay for 8 minutes with the owner in site.