Little Neck Animal Hospital
BASICS OF PUPPY TRAINING
Although genetics play an important role in behavior, environmental influences and training exert a far greater influence on the overall temperament of a dog.
Behavior problems are one of the biggest reasons owners give up their pets.
The first 14 weeks of a puppy's life have the greatest impact on his development. Puppies are most receptive to new experiences during this period and failure to provide a variety of social and environmental interactions can have lasting negative consequences.
The first two weeks of ownership will set the tone for the entire relationship. Important behaviors that must be addressed during this early period include:
Bite inhibition
Socialization with people and other dogs
Household manners
Learning to stay home alone
Technicians can play a key role in helping new puppy owners understand the importance of working on all of the above puppy behaviors. They can also educate clients on proper ways to prevent or modify unwanted behaviors
Bite Inhibition
Bite inhibition is an important behavior that is often misunderstood. Owners frequently make the mistake of immediately trying to prevent their puppies from any and all types of mouthing. However, doing this never allows the puppy to learn how "hard" is too "hard". If a dog that has never been taught proper bite inhibition does become injured or frightened and react with a bite, the force of the bite is more likely to break the skin and cause damage.
Puppies that are first taught how to gradually inhibit the force of their play-bites until they are only gently mouthing and then introduced to the concept of "no bite" are much less likely to break the skin or cause any damage in case of a bite.
Socialization with People
Beginning at 5 weeks old, all puppies will benefit from positive people experiences.
Puppies that are well socialized to people tend to be more confident and friendly. Unsocialized dogs have a more difficult time in life and suffer stress from being handled by strangers. Veterinarian and animal behaviorist, Ian Dunbar recommends that all puppies should meet a minimum of 100 strangers during their first month in a new home.
We encourage new puppy owners to schedule their first veterinary visit at a time when the puppy does not require any painful or uncomfortable procedures to be done. We suggest that you visit the office several days early just to have a "get acquainted" opportunity. The puppy can meet and play with the staff, be placed up on the exam table, fed treats, and leave the office wanting more.
Socialization with Other Dogs
Puppy classes are often the safest, most effective way to begin introducing your new puppy to other dogs outside his own little world. Play fighting and play biting help to ensure a puppy develops good bite inhibition. Classes offer a controlled way to help a puppy learn to enjoy other dogs. Most puppy classes have an age requirement to ensure that all of the students are at a similar developmental stage.
Dog parks can be good socialization areas once puppies are safely immunized and able to enter them. Long walks in parks provide another opportunity to socialize a puppy with other dogs and people.
Household Manners
Training in this area should begin as soon as the puppy comes home. Management is the key to teaching the puppy appropriate activities before undesirable behaviors become established. These important skills include:
1. Housetraining
Prevention is the key. Feed the puppy at specific times so that it will be possible to predict when the puppy will need to eliminate. Supervise, supervise, and supervise. This can include tethering the puppy in the room with you. All puppies should be taken out at regular intervals during the day including after eating, after sleeping, after playing or anytime that the puppy is observed sniffing around.
When the puppy cannot be directly supervised it is imperative that the puppy be confined in a puppy-proof area. For short periods of time this can be a crate with a blanket and chew-toy.
During longer periods it is recommended that the puppy be provided with a long-term confinement area where the puppy has access to his crate, toys, water, and an appropriate elimination area.
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Photo from "Before You Get Your Puppy" |
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2. Chew-toy Training
From day one, owners should help their puppies learn the joys of chewing on appropriate items. Chew toys are different from regular toys in that they are not edible and are virtually indestructible. Kongs, sterilized long bones, and Busy Buddy toys are some of the toys that fit this description. These toys are all hollow and can be stuffed with the puppy's food and/or treats to keep them entertained for long periods of time.
Almost as important as providing the puppy with acceptable toys, is not allowing them to pick up the wrong items. This includes picking up all shoes, socks, and other items that would prove tempting to a puppy.

3. Alternative to Barking
Teach the puppy that barking is not a way to get attention, toys, food, etc. Instead, begin to teach your puppy that quiet gets attention and rewards. Begin by sitting next to the crate, and treating your puppy for quiet time while ignoring the barking or crying. (Ignoring means that you do not make eye contact, nor do you speak to the puppy.)
This applies in almost all situations. If the doorbell rings, teach your puppy to sit, be quiet and calm (with treats) before answering the door. Before going on walks- sit and be calm and we will go for a walk.
We are trying to teach your pet to say "Please" instead of demanding attention.
Puppies that are kept busy with chew-toys do not bark or cry.
Learning to Stay Home Alone
In today's busy society, it is important that pets learn to stay home alone without becoming anxious. This is something that every owner should begin to teach their pet from early on. Many owners bring their puppy home over the weekend and then make the mistake of lavishing great amounts of attention upon their new pet. On Monday they go back to work and the puppy is suddenly abandoned to keep himself occupied. This can cause a great amount of unnecessary distress. Instead, puppies need to be placed into their crate or safe area on a regular basis to become accustomed to confinement. Owners should do this even when they are home so that they have an opportunity to observe how the puppy reacts. Chew toys and positive reinforcement with treats will help the pet relate being confined with good things.
Technicians have an opportunity to help educate clients about what to expect from a new puppy. This can help ensure that the puppy becomes a valued family member rather than an out-of-control animal with bad behavior.
Handling Behavior Problems
Many of the problem behaviors that owners report are actually normal dog behaviors expressed in ways and at times unacceptable to people. Therefore, it is important that owners understand some basic principles to modifying a behavior before they attempt to change it.
1. Preventing problem behavior is always much easier than correcting one that has become established. Remember: The behavior that is rewarded will increase. Your job is to recognize and reward those behaviors you want to encourage.
2. Managing Behavior: Some behavior problems will come up, no matter how careful an owner is. The most important thing you can do is to recognize a potential problem and prevent it from becoming a habit. This can be done by controlling the environment to decrease the potential for your dog to have the misbehavior rewarded. Remember: The behavior that is rewarded will increase.
3. Restricting the dog's freedom to the house is the first step in any management program. If you are able to consistently interrupt any misbehavior or place the dog in a secure area where he is denied the opportunity to misbehave, half of the battle is over.
4. Other ways to manage the environment include: picking up shoes, clothes, and other unacceptable chew objects until your dog has learned to leave them alone. We also recommend crating the dog, using baby gates to deny him access to visitors, using a head halter or no pull harness until your dog learns not to pull, putting food and trash cans away to prevent stealing. Many of these are not solutions, but measures to prevent the problems from occurring until the dog has been trained.
5. Identify the Motivation: If the behavior that is rewarded will increase, it is then apparent that there must be a reward involved in any misbehavior that occurs. To stop a behavior, owners must understand what the dog find motivating about it. Sometimes it is very easy to know why a dog does something--Jumping on people for attention. Other times it can be more difficult. A dog may bark to go outside, to get attention or to make the mailman go away. It may take a little detective work on the owner's part to understand the motivation and accompanying reward.
6. Interrupt and Remove Reward: Once the reason for a behavior has been identified, it becomes easier to prevent the dog from receiving the reinforcing reward. This can be achieved in several different ways. They include:
a. Ignoring the behavior
b. Training an incompatible behavior (redirecting to an acceptable behavior)
c. Providing the dog with an alternate outlet for the behavior
d. Exercise (both mental and physical)
e. Watch for your dog to do something right and reward
f. NILIF (Nothing In Life Is Free)
Reference Sheet for Problem Solving
Refer to the chart below for example of several techniques to manage and solve a variety of behavior problems. Keep in mind that it is important to understand the motivation for a behavior before you attempt to change that behavior.
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Behavior |
Common Motivations |
Management Opportunities |
Reward Interrupter |
Substitute Behaviors |
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Jumping Up |
Attention |
Leash. Crate. Baby gate or close doors when company arrives. Ignore dog until she has settled down |
Turn away from dog. Leave Room. Don't allow dog into your space. |
Sit Down Go to your spot |
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Stealing |
Food Attention |
Crate or directly supervise dog always. Remove objects from dog's reach (shoes, & clothes from floor, food from counter tops) Booby-trap trash cans or place them out of reach. |
Set dog up to catch and interrupt him in the act. Be vigilant and ALWAYS interrupt the behavior. |
Leave It Out Down-Stay Go to your spot |
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Chewing |
Self-rewarding Attention Exploration Boredom |
Crate or directly supervise dog always. Dog proof your home |
Always catch and interrupt the behavior. |
Provide and encourage the dog to chew on acceptable toys |
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House Soiling |
Self-rewarding Attention Illness |
Create or directly supervise dog always. Scheduled feedings Scheduled trips outside Veterinary examination |
Interrupt all attempts to eliminate inside & take dog out immediately. |
Take dog to same spot to eliminate each time Praise and give treats to dog within 1-2 seconds after he has eliminated |
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Pulling on Leash |
Dog gets where he wants to be |
Head Halters No-pull harnesses Provide dog with acceptable opportunities to explore environment |
Stop immediately and don't move until leash is slack. Don't allow dog access to object he wants to reach. Turn around and walk quickly in opposite direction |
Watch Me Loose leash walk |
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Mouthing |
Play Attention |
Decrease arousal level when playing. Deterrents |
Walk away or leave room Halt all play and put toys away |
Use toys during play sessions as acceptable object for mouth Easy Command |
Summary
Technicians can play a key role in helping new puppy owners understand the importance of preventing or modifying unwanted behaviors.
Technicians who are able to educate clients about what to expect from a new puppy can help ensure that the puppy becomes a valued family member rather than an out-of-control animal with bad behavior.
References
1. Before You Get Your Puppy Ian Dunbar, James & Kenneth Publishers, 2001
2. After You Get Your Puppy Ian Dunbar, James & Kenneth Publishers, 2001
3. Puppy Primer Brenda Scidmore & Patricia McConnell, Dog's Best Friend, 1996
I have prepared this program to better help you educate yourself about what puppies can do and to give you goals for achieving a well-trained puppy.
Start at 8 weeks old. Plan on multiple short sessions daily. If you are getting stressed, the session ends. Each training session should be followed by play or fun grooming and general happiness. The puppy should have a collar. I recommend a small web collar. The first sessions are with him wearing the collar and getting use to it. Remove the collar after the puppy quits resisting it. Once the collar is no longer an issue, the collar can be left on. A lead may be left on the collar but be sure not to allow the puppy to mouth or use the lead as a toy. A simple "No" and redirect with a toy (consistantly) is usually sufficient. It is cute as a puppy, not so cute when your adult dog is using the leash as a tug toy.
Initial sessions should be touching your puppy. You should touch the ears, face, inner lips, legs and feet, even the spaces between your pup's toes. Put your fingers at his ears, and touch the underside and as much of the ear canal as you can softly touch. Every member of your family should do this daily until it seems normal to your pup. Then this exercise should be repeated regularly weekly. You should hold your puppy on his back until there is no struggle when such position is requested. He should, of course, be held in a secure position in your arms or on the floor or on a secure and soft surface and not have any sense of falling. If your pup resists just a little, perform these tasks until there is no resistance to your handling. If the pup resists much, you may need to gradually condition your pup to these touches. The pup that resists, is the pup that needs the training the most. With these pups, work only until your pup resists slightly, then end the session before you or the pup becomes stressed. Many times, working with the pup when he is sleepy is a good time to deal with a resistant pup.
Treats are very important. Love and a happy voice are the best treats. Each pup will respond differently to various treats. Treats should be small and easy to carry. Bits of dog biscuits, dehydrated liver, pieces of carrot, pieces of cat food or cat treats are usually highly desirable to puppies. Do not use cat food if you also have a cat. You should initially give a treat for every good deed your pup does. However, as training advances, treats are given less often for the basics and more often for the advanced deeds.
Commands should be proceeded by the pup's name. Commands should be given in a commanding' voice. Lower the tone of your voice. Speak loudly and slowly enough for the pup to hear and understand that a command has been given. Only give commands when you are prepared to help the pup complete the deed. Once the command is given, begin to assist the pup into the position you requested or help him to perform the task. You should help the pup stay in this position until you give a release command.
You need a release word. This is a word that your pup should listen for to allow him to once again move about on his own. He should otherwise continue to do what you commanded until released. Release' is a good word for this. Okay' can be used, but is not recommended due to the number of times we use this term in every day life, and frequently as praise.
It is a good idea to have a word or phrase that you use as a command/request for your pup to urinate or defecate. This is part of house training/crate training that will be expanded upon in other literature. But, it is really nice for your pup to go on command when needed. Common phrases are Hurry up' and Go potty'.
Your pup will learn fast. If you and your family members are consistent with your training techniques, your pup will master each step in a matter of several lessons. Remember, your pup has a very limited attention span. Initially, less than 1 minute, to eventually long periods of time.
Pups learn with repetition and consistency. Every member of the family greater than 7 or 8 should try to participate in the training. Some children younger will also be capable, and some children that are older will not be able. Children should be supervised in their handling/training of pups. If there is a family member that does not "take" naturally to the pet and does not want to participate, that person must be excused from these sessions, until such a time that they might really want to, and are committed to helping the pup learn.